Helpful Tips to Install a New Shingled Roof
Installing a new shingled roof is one of those things that just have to be done, at some point and time. There is a certain way that this should be done; regarding tear off, tar paper, and the shingles. Most generally, asphalt shingles are used for roofing. There are some different types of asphalt shingles, and other details regarding shingles that is great to have knowledge about. Deciding on a contractor to install the new shingled roof is another important aspect of this duty.
In case some people do not know much about shingles, one important thing to know is that these do weigh a lot and should not be lifted up to a roof by someone who is inexperienced or by someone who has a back problem. It is highly recommended to hire a contractor or an affordable roofing company to do this job. The contractor has the equipment to carry the shingles up to the roof, and they have insurance. The insurance covers the contractor if he/she has an accident while on the roof, or if any damage occurs to the roof or home while the shingles are being installed.
Roofing nails tend to be short and have large heads to hold down shingles. Longer nails are used with re-roofing.
Ultimately, a homeowner can choose to do this job, but it is a good idea to have some strong friends and/or family members to assist in getting the shingles onto the roof, and with the rest of the job. If someone chooses to do this job without hiring a contractor, here are some things necessary to do the job properly.
Items necessary for this will be a utility knife; if the shingles need to be cut or trimmed, a trash dumpster, good boots with rubber soles for easy gripping to the roof, ladders, hammers, gloves, bleach, roofing nails, latex gloves, tar paper, mouth and nose mask, roofing stapler, staples, and shingles. You may also need a pair of pliers to help with any stuck screws or nails. If the day will be sunny when installing the new roof, this will be better, as the shingles will be more flexible if the sun warms then up. When purchasing shingles and other tools and equipment, most depots will have an employee right there who can be of assistance with the size of nails, staples, and even in what to choose for shingles.
The bleach may be necessary if there is any mold underneath the old shingles. This will have to be cleaned thoroughly before installing the new roof. First, tear off the old shingles and toss them into the dumpster. Then, tear off any old tar paper and toss this into the dumpster. If there are any TV antennas or satellite dishes, they of course also need to be removed. If it is necessary to clean up mold or other debris that was underneath the old shingles, use a three-part bleach and water solution and a gentles scrub brush for this. The three-part solution means two parts water and one part bleach. A nose and mouth mask might be necessary to avoid breathing in bleach fumes.
Once everything has been torn off, cleaned and dried, it is time to replace the shingles with new ones. The toughest part for some people is the places around a chimney or other things, little dips and such. If you have stubborn shingles, you may need to use an axe. Shingles will need to be cut with the utility knife using special shingle blades to place this in. First, the tar paper will be placed over the entire roof. This is usually done with small nails that have plastic heads on them to make sure there is a large area to hold the tar paper in place and prevent tear out. Standard roofing nails will not hold here if a wind kicks up. To paper the roof you start at the bottom of the rook and move up as you make your rows. The rows should overlap 4-6″ as you move up the roof. Row Ends should overlap 12″ to prevent leaks.
Next you want to install drip edging all around the perimeter of the roof. This is an L shaped 10 foot section of aluminum or steel used to shed water away from the roof edges. Overlap this metal 6″ at the edges and use metal shears to cut it . If your home has valleys it is now time to install flashing. Flashing prevents water from accumulating in the valleys and backing up under the shingles. 14″ or wider aluminum flashing is the best for this area. Start at the bottom and unroll it to the top. Only nail the edges as you move up. You do not want any holes in the flashing that water can get through. This also applies with shingling over the flashing.
Shingles should offset from the previous row about 4-6″. Never line up with a previous row. The rows should overlap to the height of the tabs or architectural layers. 3 nails should nail each single in minimum.
Once the tar paper is covering the whole roof, the shingles can be place onto the roof. They have to be straight, so a line will need to be done, a chalk line. Measure and make sure that it all levels out. Shingling needs to begin at the bottom of the roof with a starter row of shingles which should hang over the edge of the roof about 1″. This is usually a row of 20 year shingles turned upside down so no tabs are visible.
Have someone quite able to help bring shingles up to the roof . Make sure there are measured points and chalk lines to go by so that they are straight. There is nothing more monotonous than having to take the shingles all off and start over because they were not laid in straight lines. Shingles are staggered as each row is laid on top of the other. You never want seams from the lower row to line up with the shingle that is being nailed in. 6″ is a good amount to stagger, but manufacturers have the suggested specs on the packaging.
Some people would argue the fact about cost versus hiring a contractor or the homeowner doing the job, but it may actually cost less to hire a contractor to install the new shingled roof. Before installing the new roof, choose the shingles that will be used. Make sure that the shingles have a good warranty of at least twenty five years. These will cost more, but the shingles should last a lot longer, but other things can affect the length of time that shingles last, like the weather, broken tree limbs, and things like this. The cheaper shingles are called 3 tab and have notched spaces in them. The 30+ year shingles have no tabs and are solid with layering that create the effect of depth. These are called Architectural shingles and less likely to leak.
To choose the color of shingles, the color that is already on the home can be a good choice, unless someone wishes to change the color. Grey and tinted white colors are the ones usually chosen to put on a roof. If a darker color is chosen, they may not last as long, as the sun can absorb more into dark materials, therefore; wearing the shingles down faster. If a person lives where the weather is colder most of the year, the dark colors may last longer.
30 year architecture shingles cost about 1/3 more but last 30 years and are less prone to leaking. Well worth the investment.
Some types of asphalt shingles are architectural style shingles, designer style shingles, and traditional style shingles. The first one out of the three mentioned has a longer warranty, with a limited lifetime warranty, and will cost much more. The architectural style shingles are at the top of the list for quality shingles, as well as price. The designer style shingles come in different cuts and shapes and are not used as often. The ones that are used most often and that have great ratings are the traditional style shingles. The warranty for these is between twenty five and thirty years.